DEWALT DWS780-QS 1675Watt 305mm Compound Slide Mitre Saw with 60T TCT blade

Packaging
Initially, there was a delay in delivery. Eventually had to pick it up myself. To my horror the packaging was in shambles. Some small parts were missing. However, thanks to Dewalt for making such a sturdy machine. Tried the machine for a couple of hours and had no issues.

Cette scie est lourde, et montée sur un rail dewalt, mis à part comment baisser le bras, mais c’est un outil super génial qui scie des poteaux de 90 mm voire plus. Je le conseille

I was in need of a new saw that would replace an older 12″ Ryobi chop saw (toy). I also wanted to eliminate the remaining nagging need for a less accurate radial arm saw. I had already replaced the need for overhand dados with a good router and the needs for most finish work with a highly accurate sled and fence on my table saw and needed something that could perform as a chop saw but also had the depth to crosscut a decent depth for stairs, flooring and really wide trim and finish pieces that ould be awkward to cut on the table saw no matter the setup.I have not noticed ANY of the problems mentioned by some reviewers and the rather uniform form of those complaints leads me to believe some of them at least may be paid guerrilla commenters. The saw was checked right out of the box with a dial gauge and was dead on. The factory blade was not bad actually. It cuts cleanly as a general purpose crosscut blade but will obviously not last as long as a higher quality blade will or cut quite as cleanly as a finer toothed blade will but it cut through a set of 2 x 12 pressure treated for decking stairs very well; it also cut through some clear grade pine shelving without splintering the edge of the cut. I will still change the blade for really fine stuff. Also the saw didn’t seem to bog down in the least going through the heavy pressure treated wood.The XPS system is a freaking dream to use and such a vast improvement over any of the laser systems I’ve seen or used. If you bring the blade down almost to the wood you get a razor fine line where the saw will cut so you know exactly where the blade is going – no more adding a 1/16″ or an 1/8″ and the gravy is that you don’t need to spin the blade up while your face is closer to the wood and blade to line the cut up because the XPS system is independent of the blade – just remember to turn it off when you’re done using the saw. or you’ll kill the long lived LEDs before their time and waste expensive electricity.The dust bag is a joke as all dust bags have always been on all miter saws since they first came out. You can probably hook it up to a shop vac and be fine. The blade does quite a powerful job of chucking the saw dust out of the cut area giving it some momentum going into the dust chute. I have been hooking mine up to my roll around 1hp Grizzly dust collector though and love the performance and would say the claims about the dust collection of the hood behind the blade of this saw are not very much exaggerated. In fact I made a few cuts through some of the scrap 2 x 12 material without the dust collector or dust bag and received almost no dust in front of the saw. (It will shoot it out about 15-20 feet behind the saw though) I used a 1 1/2″ to 4″ Fernco coupler (cost like 4 bucks) on mine and a 6″ length of 4″ PVC scrap (the white stuff) to connect this to the 4″ hose from the dust collector and it works like a charm.The bearings. Many are the whinings about the bearings and the accuracy at full extension – especially when using the back fence to be able to cross cut 16″. The first thing is that they stick or are hard to move. The first couple of passes out of the box and the bearings did in fact seem a bit stiff. There is little to no lube on the bars right out of the box as the bearings have not been slid over them. A few passes and they loosened up a bit; a little machine oil and they flew. The only time they seemed to bog after that was when I was making some test passes through scrap with no bag or dust collector hooked up to see how much dust was actually being captured by the blade hood. I’m sure this just accelerated what would happen slowly anyway but dust caked on the bearing did succeed in bogging up the glides. A simple wipe down followed by a few squirts of machine oil and I was back in business. That is simple, common sense maintenance though and shouldn’t be held as a ding against the saw.The other popular complaint is the accuracy at the full 16″ cut depth. I made and installed the sub fence by following the instructions in the manual and made some test cuts. It bears to mention that 16″ wide pieces of lumber of any length can be quite unwieldy and should be clamped before cutting – both for accuracy and for the love of our fingers. There was less than a 0.002″ difference between the near side and the far side of the cut. That is far, far less than 1/64th of an inch and not noticeable in any finish work and I dare say a good bit closer to perfect than any of the cuts made on mass produced furniture. I’ve since used the saw to make 16″ deep serving table made up of glued up pine panels and it is dead on square and level. As far as I am concerned that is near enough to perfect as makes no difference and about as close as you can get with any woodworking equipment.I love this saw and see many years of use in it if taken care of properly. I did find it kind of amusing that the Ryobi branded stand I had purchased for my older Ryobi 12″ miter saw required me to make an adapter plate out of plywood to fit the Ryobi saw to the clamps that hold it on the stand but the Dewalt fit right on the same clamps with no issue like they were made for it.